Whilw we werein the market for a pool table we looked at a lot of different ones. Most of them were broke down and you couldn't play on them. This was a major downside and we passed on all of the options that were already broke down.
A table mechanic once told me to never buy a table you can't shoot on first. A disassembled would be a red flag to most serious buyers. Just like a car you couldn't test drive. When you see a disassembled table, it's often difficult to see if all the parts are there. There may be missing screws or bolts, and the buyer wouldn't know until they have the table halfway put together.
Be realistic about what you're buying if it's a basic home table from a big box store don't let them make it out like it's a Gold Crown. It isn't.
A lot of what makes having a fun space is actually getting to use it. But they should aso be multi purpose. Party basements are good. But having the chance to turn it into a theater are even better.
We have an Epson 8350 and I love it!
I've seen it on amazon for $1050 but we got ours for around $800 used. Only thing I can complain about is that it gets pixelated with fast motion scenes so I'd rather it be 120hz or something better.
We also picked up an Elite retractable screen with 1.1 gain so it wouldn't be as bright.
Just be sure you have dark curtains if you have any large windows or you can't watch during the day. For the basement this isn't a problem. It works great in low light but not in bright light.
The reason I commented about the 120hz is that when numerous pixels change colors quickly you'll see artifacts. Since it's 120" this will stand out much more than on a 60" TV. A faster processor and display capable of rendering at 120hz or more won't have artifacts. Many people don't like the "soap opera" look this causes. Personally, I want the best picture so I like the effect. Most sets have a setting to turn that off if you don't like it though.
That's my understanding at least. At 120" I think more that 60hz is necessary but this thing is great and I won't replace it until 4k led projectors are this cheap.
Keep in mind, this doesn't include your receiver, speakers, materials, this is just the projector. I think the total for the materials which included lumber, drywall, paints, etc was another $250-$300. It really wasn't that much total. I did everything on a lower budget so it looked good, but didn't cost that much.
Both or our pool tables were used. One with major wear that needed to be repaired and the other was in perfect condition.
A table is a table as long as it's late and the price is right.
You never said how much the table is. There's always the off chance if the table was stored in pieces that the slate can warp, don't let anyone fo you to think that slate can't warp because I've seen it many times firsthand. It is able to be fixed but we will touch base on that and another subject if you needed.
I personally had an Olhausen table and I will never buy one again because I don't like the way they play.
They are commonly known in the pool playing world as furniture grade tables. No professional player will choose a Olhausen. But if you're just looking for a table to have fun on in your house, then they are just fine. The Accu-fast cushions are great because they never wear out but they have a lot of rebound on them so therefore the inside the pockets by the facings have a lot of spring causing what is known on Olhausen tables as pocket rattle or the rattle of death.
Pool tables are notoriously known for not retaining value. The only tables that will really retain value well are good quality tables like a Brunswick or a Diamond Pro.
And even those will still lose value over time.
We had a sump pump in the basement, well we still do, but it isn't noticable anymore. They can be really unslightly, but you can avoid making them a fixture of your space.
Our solution was to give it its own room. We banged together a wall around it and put a door on it.
You would still want to frame it to code, which is usually 16 inches between studs in our area. In some areas, it can be down to 12 inches, or up to 24 inches depending on the load being supported. As yours would not be load bearing, I would just check code to see what the options are and calculate out the minimum amount of space needed to cover the area as I am guessing you don't want it to be a focal point.
I would run it up to the ceiling to avoid creating a shelf and another spot for dust/spiders/crap to gather and just consider the space a write-off. If you do that, you might as well put a regular door on it.
You can get prehung doors that are 18x80 if you are looking to minimize the doorway.
Of course, you could always build a short shelf over it and put a cabinet door over it, but you might want a little more space should you ever need to get in there later.
Just make sure it's done to code.
As for a door something that I'd personally suggest a simple closet style track door. Nice and easy, looks clean, and it's basically going to be a closet.
We have two pool tables in the basement. One of them was for special occasions, the other was a beater.
For the good one I decided it would be neat to turn it into a dining table of sorts.
I had to actually change my plans a couple of times.
These were pit falls that I ran into while working on the project.
Have a look if you can even put chairs under the pool table.
Is the table going to be too high, do you need to use stools instead of chairs.
If you cant fit under the table as is consider making the table top wider to give leg room.
Will widening the table make it too big for the room.
Consider veneers for the top surface so you can make it thinner, how are you going to protect the pool table edges when the table is on the top.
Consider making the top surface in leaves so you can remove it easily and possibly store it lengthways in recesses under the pool table.
Tables made in this way tend to have dowels to mate the edges securely with each other and table locks or similar to make sure they stay together.
Lots of expense. Lots of time invested. The result wasn't as good as I had hoped for.
We had to make space when we started to redesign our basement. One of the most imortant things was moving the pool table.
We actually have 2 tables. One is nicer and was already in the corner, and then there is this one on which the kids learned how to play on. Because of that, being exactly level is not of the highest concern.
But it is also huge compared to the other, so it was a bit of work moving it. Hell, getting it down there was tempting fate.
To move it I bolted 4 heavy-duty casters under a 5 foot segment of 2x12 lumber.
Do that twice so you can have 2 "skateboards" that can handle 2 legs each. Then use an automobile jack to jack the table up a few inches to slide the skateboards underneath (one side at a time).
Once it's on both skateboards, roll it wherever you want it and undo.
Only do this with smaller one-piece slate bar tables, and once you get them in the new destination, level and shim the legs as-needed.
If you have 3-piece slate tables, this is almost guaranteed to pop the seams and make you want to re-cloth the table. We did this at the local pool hall to move tables around when we re-carpeted, but we had already planned to re-level and re-cloth the tables when they got put back in their spots.